Ceramics have excellent scratch resistance and wear resistance, and can withstand high temperature and thermal shock. They have super anti-aging ability, and they are also very suitable for watch manufacturing materials. However, because it has a very high degree of processing difficulty for manual decoration, it is more difficult to process than ordinary metal. Perhaps this is also the reason why ceramics cannot become the mainstream material of watch cases, and the processing cost is more expensive.
The ceramic case for the watch case should belong to Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, which is the most cumbersome. Because of its unique shape and many cutting faces, its iconic octagonal bezel requires 70 manual retouching processes to cut eight oblique The corners are ground and polished, and the case of the single structure still needs 44 steps to finish the sanding process after the stamping process. After the switch to ceramic material, the watchmaker needs a high degree of patience and skill.
Audemars Piguet launched the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar watch last year, this year it also launched a black ceramic model (model: 26579CE.OO.1225CE.01), further enriching its perpetual calendar series. In the 41 mm black ceramic case, on the dark gray ‘Grande Tapisserie’ large decorative dial, the date, day, month, astronomical moon phase, week display on the outer circle of the dial, and leap year display with the most essence of perpetual calendar function Clearly presented, the anti-glare treatment of the sapphire crystal case back allows the wearer to appreciate the beauty of this self-produced movement.
The crown is also made of black ceramic. The octagonal crown is still cumbersome in processing.
The bracelet is the most difficult part of the entire watch. The technology of the Royal Oak integrated strap is extremely complicated. There are a total of 138 edges and corners that need to be polished and polished by hand. They are machined, decorated and assembled by hand. And adjusting a Royal Oak series strap made of stainless steel takes 6 hours, and it takes up to 30 hours to make a black ceramic strap of the same style.
The thickness of the case is only 9.5 millimeters, the side treatment is like cutting, and there is also the wire drawing treatment, which requires considerable man-hours.
The dark gray ‘Grande Tapisserie’ large checkered dial with black sub-dial design, and the astronomical accurate moon phases are displayed in real moon images, in contrast to the black parts. At 3 o’clock, the date is displayed; at 9 o’clock, the week is displayed; at 12 o’clock, the month and leap year are displayed; the outer circle is displayed for 52 weeks of the year, which is indicated by a white arrow pointer.
Audemars Piguet’s new Cal. 5134 self-winding mechanical movement, based on the Cal. 2120 movement. The first Royal Oak was born with Audemars Piguet Cal. 2120 movement, no second hand, caliber 39 mm, thickness 7 mm. This movement is still one of the finest automatic ultra-thin movements. Cal.5134 has been improved and expanded to fit the 41 mm case. It looks like a suspended clockwork decorated with a round Geneva pattern. All bridges are chamfered and decorated with Geneva pattern. A plaid pattern accents the outer edge, echoing the Royal Oak’s signature disc design.
Summary: Compared with the precious metal perpetual calendar introduced last year, the black ceramic version is undoubtedly more cool, and also has more skill in material processing. The combination of external and internal perfect craftsmanship, this watch should be listed in the near future, interested watch friends may wish to pay more attention.