In March 2019, the Basel watch exhibition is approaching, watch fans are predicting Rolex’s new watches, and there are a lot of reliable and unreliable ‘spy photos’ coming out of the sky. Whether it is possible to continue the myth that steel sports watches are over-priced and snapped up is also a topic that people talk about. And the Rolex official website recently gave a new notice: open the home page, we can see a few seconds of short video, revealing some dial, hands and case information. From the luminous scale, ‘Mercedes’ hands and the text under the small crown, it is the oyster sports watch that people are talking about. Rolex began to launch a new generation of 32 ** movements in 2015. In the past two years, sports sea dwellers and GMT II have begun to be updated, so theoretically new watches in 2019 will not come from these two series. The remaining possibilities are a submarine with a calendar function, or a yacht. The two are significantly different. In addition to the name text on the dial, the yacht uses more rose gold and platinum, a special diving bezel, and a polished beveled case bracelet, which is more ‘luxury’ than the submariner. Judging from the black dial and silver-white metal second hand end of the video, the new watch is more likely to be a submerged steel case, and the case and lug polished look more like a yacht. Regardless of which one the new watch is, there are some changes in details relative to the styles on sale, and it will be known tomorrow, March 20. 01 The Rolex official website interface has also undergone some major changes. The most interesting place is to mark the price of almost all watches-yes, you can directly check the official price later on the official website. We simply counted, there are only a few platinum watches, diamond-set models without price, such as platinum Daytona, bezel-set diamonds, rose gold week calendar type, etc., other regular watches can see the public price. A few popular steel sports watches are like this: The five-bead chain ‘Pepsi Cola Circle’, the official website shows the public price of 72,200; ‘Green Water Ghost’ is 70,500; and ceramic ring steel Di, the official website price is 96,700. Let’s take a look at the actual situation in the market. There are very few stocks in the specialty stores, and you have to wait after booking. In the second-hand market, the five-bead chain Cola circle costs about 120,000, the green water ghosts are more than 100,000, and the ceramic circle steel is 16 million up and down. After seeing the official price of the official website, are you still willing to pay nearly 80% of the price to buy these popular watches? As for the Rolex brand, do you really want to see such a product being speculated by speculators? What does it mean to publish the official guide price on the website? Displaying the price of the watch on the official website, you may think this is normal, especially for some brands that are price-friendly, the official website e-commerce function has been turned on, and you have even bought the watch on the official website. But don’t forget that the brand we are talking about is Rolex, but it has always been mysterious and low-key, relatively traditional and conservative. Remember the “Co-branded” Rolex event in 2017? Even though Supreme was so popular in the past, many people take the cooperation for granted, but those who know Rolex’s style understand that this is Supreme’s strong role against Rolex. Regardless of public opinion, Rolex did not have any public response. Yes, it’s also Rolex. So if you understand Rolex, you will know that any changes and actions of Rolex in digitalization have an index meaning for the Swiss watch industry. In this era of popularization of the mobile Internet, people’s needs for network information are like eating, drinking, and being timely, necessary, and green and healthy. Most people who want to buy a watch have the need to prepare for their homework. Check the basic information of the watch-movement, material, size, manual or automatic, etc. The most important thing is the price. The brand’s official website is often the first choice because it is official and more trusted. But five or six years ago, few brands would mark the price of watches on their official website. Check prices are going to third-party websites. They collect a large number of watch prices from brand conferences and dealers. But third parties are also imperfect, sometimes without prices, and sometimes the styles and prices are not right. As with the attitude towards luxury e-commerce, the change in prices displayed by brands on the official website has gradually occurred in the past few years. Now about 80% of well-known watch brands can find the price on the official website. 02 In addition to the official Rolex website price announcement, this update also enhances the interactive function of the website browsing-‘custom’ models. Of course, it’s not really customized, but Rolex will present the function of the previous screening model in the form of ‘configuration’. The viewer performs a few steps to complete the selection by himself, the process is much like ‘private customization’. Let’s take the configuration of a Daytona watch as an example. Three steps are required: The first step is to choose the watch metal, steel, gold (steel and gold), 18K rose gold, 18K white gold, 18K yellow gold, and 950 platinum. , Choose one of six; we choose 18K white gold. The second step is to choose the strap, all metal bracelet and rubber strap, choose one of the two; we choose all metal bracelet. The third step is to choose the dial, gray dial night cursor, blue dial night cursor, black dial with diamond mark, mother-of-pearl dial with diamond mark, choose one of five; we choose black dial diamond mark. After the three steps were completed, our watch was ‘customized’ like this, and the final price was RMB 308,000. If we want to configure more Rolex-style diary or day-of-the-day watches, then we also need to choose the diameter, bezel and other links, the customization steps are more complicated. In this way, we really have the feeling of customizing an exclusive special Rolex watch completely according to our own needs. In terms of digitalization, it is more convenient for potential consumers to browse the official website to attract consumers to stay on the official website. Of course, displaying the price and configuring the watch model yourself can also inhibit the impulse of buying popular watches by increasing prices. Last year, Rolex also specially launched the Rolex.org website, which organized and listed some brand historical data. Those who are interested in Rolex can find relevant information more conveniently. For example, the name of Rolex is no longer ‘circular can be easily pronounced’ spread around the world. The Rolex.org website describes it this way: On July 2, 1958, in the speech of the brand 50 Zhou Zhiqing, Han Wilsdorf recalled, ‘I tried all the letter combinations and came up with hundreds of names, but none of them pleased me. One morning, I was sitting on the upper level of a public carriage and passing through the city of London. On the street, I seemed to hear the sound of a little elf whispering Rolex in my ears. 03 If you are a fan of Blancpain watches or Lange watch fans, I often browse their official website for some brand latest news. , Then you may also find some changes similar to Rolex. At the beginning of 2019, both Blancpain and Lange updated their official website interfaces, and more importantly, they also added official official price display. However, one thing is different from Rolex. They are not currently renminbi prices. Blancpain comes from Switzerland and is displayed in Swiss francs. Lange is a German brand and is displayed in euros. The price of our familiar Blancpain Fifty Fathom Submersible, the blue ceramic case is 12,000 Swiss francs. Lange’s latest 25th anniversary watch, Lange, is available for 45,800 Euros in January. Most of the brand’s official website management is set up at the headquarters, which can be unified from image to content. It only needs to be displayed in English, French, Chinese, Japanese and other major languages, as well as German, Arabic, Korean and so on. However, the price part involves specific conditions such as tax rates and expenses in different market regions. Maintenance should require local teams to operate. We speculate that the RMB prices of Blancpain and Lange should be updated in the near future. Another thing that is different from Rolex is that on the official websites of Blancpain and Lange, you can check the price of almost all models, including the large and complicated function tables with expensive prices. For example, the price of Blancpain carrousel minute repeater watch is 480,000 Swiss francs; Lange ‘owl’ decimal minute repeater watch is 440,000 euros. Yes, luxury watches such as Blancpain and Lange who pursue the ultimate in arts and craftsmanship also display the official price as an important part of the website update. Meeting the information needs of consumers in the Internet era is a trend in the digitalization of major luxury watch brands in recent years. 04 Let’s take a look at Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe, which are known as ‘Swiss Fine Watch Troikas’. Their official website prices have been completed in the past year or so. Patek Philippe, in addition to the watch with the minute repeater function, can basically check the price of other models. For example, the current popular sports ‘nautilus’ steel watch, the official price of the official website is 218,200 yuan; the large complex function table, chronograph perpetual calendar model 5204P, the public price is 2.241 million. Audemars Piguet’s price display is similar to Patek Philippe’s. There are no large complicated models, and you need to inquire by phone. Basic models are available, and the latest Code11.59 series prices released by SIHH in 2019 have also been launched. Royal Oak series 41mm basic model 15400 steel watch, the official website price is 132,000; Code11.59 series chronograph rose gold price is 314,000. If you enter the official website of Vacheron Constantin from the web version, then the price display rules you see are similar. There is basically no price on the big complicated function table, and you are prompted to call 400 for consultation; the basic styles have complete prices. But when you enter the WeChat homepage from Vacheron Constantin’s official WeChat, you can see the price of all watches on sale, including the superb complications of the inherited series-the three-question tourbillon perpetual calendar watch, and the price of diamond-set styles. The reason why we can see the full price on WeChat is that Vacheron Constantin is already perfect in digitalization, especially in localization. In 2017, Vacheron Constantin developed the WeChat homepage on the official WeChat to facilitate consumers in the era of the mobile Internet. The information is comprehensive and there is a small program e-commerce. This is related to the active strategy of Vacheron Constantin’s parent company, Richemont Group in digitalization. Richemont Group merged its e-commerce Net-A-Port with Yoox in 2015 and listed independently (YNAP). At that time, the chairman of the group, Rupert, expressed great importance to online business, called LVMH and Kering, and invited colleagues to settle in. At the same time, Richemont’s jewelry and watch brands are also actively investing in digital and e-commerce. In 2018, Richemont Group fully acquired YNAP. The latest quarterly earnings report also reflects the sales revenue of online e-commerce business. Richemont separated the e-commerce business recorded in the jewelry and watch division from April to December 2017-123 million euros-this is the sales performance from the official e-commerce of each brand. Another watch giant Swatch Group has also given a clear signal in terms of digitization. In the performance report for 2018, in addition to the praises of outstanding brands, Swatch Group also told investors that in the coming fiscal year, the Group will strengthen e-commerce, especially mid-range and basic brands. In addition, the Swatch watch introduced the ‘Swatch Pay’ digital payment function in early 2019, and received good market feedback, which will also be an important growth point in the coming year. Under the trend of the times, the remaining 20% of watch brands believe that they are also starting to refine their websites. In the future, you can go to the brand’s official website to check the price. / end / Lu Xi’s interview notes Join readers, please send name + occupation + WeChat to [email protected]
Month: August 2020
Every year Chanel launches several unique timepieces, which will become the most eye-catching scenery at the Basel Watch Fair. These works are unique in both craftsmanship and design, and they have become the focus of discussion.
Last year was a lion, and this year became a toad?
Chronosphère clock created by Chanel in collaboration with Swiss watchmaker L’ Epée
The Chanel Monsieur de Chanel pocket watch style released at Baselworld 2018 can be disassembled and converted into a clock. The base is equipped with a sculpture of a lion and uses the Calibre 2.2.
Ms. Chanel is a Leo, and male lions appear very frequently in Chanel’s work. Chanel’s male lion is a little bit British and has its own queen flavor. At Baselworld 2018, Chanel exhibited a clock and a pocket watch with double-conversion clockwork. The black male lion became an important support for the base of the clock, showing a post-modern Baroque style, and a dark low-key luxury produced a mysterious appeal.
Left: CHANEL PREMIÈRE MIDNIGHT IN VENDÔME clock with ring, total diamond weight approximately 56.43 carats
Right: CHANEL PREMIÈRE MIDNIGHT IN VENDÔ ME18K yellow gold ring watch, total diamond weight is about 1.06 carats
CHANEL PREMIÈRE MIDNIGHT IN VENDÔME clock with ring
CHANEL PREMIÈRE MIDNIGHT IN VENDÔME clock with ring
This year, Chanel broke the norm and incorporated the oriental image of toad into watch design. If the lion represents the sun, the toad is often given the meaning of the ‘moon’ in Eastern and Western myths, and in China, it is a beautiful symbol of ‘fortune’. The 18K yellow gold toad on this clock is set with 2 topaz and 812 brilliant-cut diamonds, the ring is set with 1 yellow sapphire, 46 brilliant-cut diamonds, 2 baguette-cut diamonds and onyx, base Covered with ebony boards and obsidian blocks and surrounded by 18K yellow gold, it is surrounded by 236 brilliant-cut diamonds for luxury. This is priced at 1.2 million Euros, and I guess it will be bought by some families or entrepreneurs as the treasure of the town.
Is it jewelry or a watch?
Left: CHANEL PREMIÈRE MIDNIGHT IN VENDÔME bracelet watch, total diamond weight is about 3.53 carats
Right: CHANEL PREMIÈRE MIDNIGHT IN VENDÔME necklace watch, total diamond weight is about 2.53 carats
Although these two are a bracelet watch and a necklace watch, the chain part also uses 18K yellow gold with Japanese pearls, faceted onyx beads and square totems with bright-cut diamonds, which are also provided at the same time. The role of decoration.
Exquisite oriental screen
Chanel MADEMOISELLE PRIVÉ Clock
In addition, Chanel also launched the unique MADEMOISELLE PRIVÉ table clock last year. The exquisite table clock dial highlights Chanel’s proud carving process. Its precision manual winding fine watchmaking mechanical movement is created by Chanel Creative Studio and designed by Swiss watchmaker L’ Epée. The skilled watchmaker hollowed out the movement part carefully, changing the light and shadow, presenting the delicate finishing beauty.
Left: CHANEL MADEMOISELLE PRIVÉ watch, 18K gold case, snowflake-inlaid diamond, onyx dial, 18K gold bird and mother-of-pearl micro-engraving pattern
Right: CHANEL MADEMOISELLE PRIVÉ watch, 18K gold case, snowflake inlaid diamonds, onyx dial decorated with 18K gold and mother-of-pearl micro-carved pattern
Chanel MADEMOISELLE PRIVÉ necklace watch COROMANDEL oriental screen dial, quartz movement, total diamond weight approximately 7.62 carats
Chanel’s carved gold oriental screen design inspired by oriental screens is the embodiment of elegance and beauty. Snowflake-inlaid diamonds give the dial its misty beauty, and each watch condenses a different kind of feeling on the wrist and witnesses the passing of time.
CHANEL CODE COCO watch, 18K white gold case, bezel and rotating lock, case set with 7 baguette-cut diamonds, bezel set with 30 baguette-cut diamonds, 27 princess-cut rubies, rotating The lock is set with 15 baguette-cut diamonds, the dial is set with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds and 1 princess-cut diamond, and the strap is set with 322 baguette-cut rubies
CODE COCO has always been one of the most popular styles for women in the Chanel watch series, and young girls have interpreted it. At this year’s Basel watch exhibition, Chanel launched a unique model with whole body inlaid with rubies and diamonds. This watch blurs the boundary between watches and jewelry, adding charm to women.
CHANEL J12 watch, dial, case, bezel, strap, crown set with a total of 794 diamonds, black balance set with 52 baguette-cut diamonds
Of all the unique watches, this diamond-studded J12 watch is the most eye-catching. No matter what angle it is, it is bound to become the focus of the crowd, making it unforgettable at a glance. This watch sells for 1.1 million Euros and hope to see someone wearing it soon!
At this year’s Basel Watch Fair, Chanel launched a number of beautiful watch works, combining superb craftsmanship and rich imagination, and next year it will give what watch design, no one can imagine.
Shen Yang, a vocalist from China, has been officially invited to become a Montblanc brand ambassador, and has become a spokesperson for Montblanc watches, jewelry, leather goods and writing instruments. The dazzling rookie in the opera world is inextricably linked to Montblanc. Shen Yang participated in the 2008 Salbsburg Young Singers Project and was awarded the Montblanc New Voices in 2010. Award).
Born in Tianjin, China, the 27-year-old Shen Yang won the Cardiff International Vocal Competition in 2007 and immediately received international attention. He also won the Borletti-Buitoni Trust Artist Award in 2008 and the new Montblanc Day Star 2010. Sound Award. Graduated from the Metropolitan Theater Opera Training Program, the Julia School of Music, and the Shanghai Conservatory of Music. The mid-bass vocalist is the best bridge between Eastern and Western cultures, injects vitality into many classic classical music songs, and continues the essence of Chinese culture.
Shen Yang has performed in important opera houses around the world, and has also starred in a variety of protagonist roles, including by the New York Metropolitan Opera by Louis. ‘Don Giovanni’ directed by Louis Langrée and Marco. La Bohème, directed by Marco Armiliato, was sung by John. Hayden’s ‘Die Jahreszeiten’ conducted by John Nelson, and Carnegie Hall by James. Levine (James Levine) and Daniel. ‘Brahms’ Liebeslieder Walzer ‘, conducted by Daniel Barenboim, was performed by Ivo at the Salzburg Festival. The opera repertoire conducted by Ivor Bolton has performed solo in Cardiff’s BBC Hoddinott Auditorium, Hong Kong Arts Festival, Shanghai Grand Theatre, and New York Lincoln Center.
His recent performances include the New York Philharmonic and Dallas Philharmonic’s Handel’s ‘Messiah’ conducted by Helmuth Rilling, and his first concert with the Boston Symphony Orchestra by Raphael. Frubek. The protagonist of ‘Elias’ by Mendelssohn, conducted by Rafael Frühbeck de Burgos, the Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra and Edu. Edo de Waart sang Mahler’s ‘Des knaben Wunderhorn’ during his international tour, and he was honoured by Waller in the Day Star New Voice Award. A concert of opera songs conducted by Ge Zifu.
Montblanc Global President Lutz Bethge said, ‘We are honored to invite Shen Yang as our brand goodwill ambassador. Since Montblanc met him three years ago, he has seen his musical achievements rise rapidly, and we are very sure of his outstanding talent, and His ability to integrate music into more different corners of the world is fully in line with Montblanc’s philosophy for many years, which is to fully promote and support global art and culture. ‘
Montblanc’s current artistic and cultural projects include sponsoring the Montblanc Symphony Orchestra, the Montblanc PRIX Montblanc Art Award in Berlin, the Montblanc Young Directors Project in Salzburg, and the Montblanc New Voices Award), John Lennon Educational Tour Bus, and 2011 celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Montblanc Cultural and Art Sponsorship Awards.
Ceramics have excellent scratch resistance and wear resistance, and can withstand high temperature and thermal shock. They have super anti-aging ability, and they are also very suitable for watch manufacturing materials. However, because it has a very high degree of processing difficulty for manual decoration, it is more difficult to process than ordinary metal. Perhaps this is also the reason why ceramics cannot become the mainstream material of watch cases, and the processing cost is more expensive.
The ceramic case for the watch case should belong to Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, which is the most cumbersome. Because of its unique shape and many cutting faces, its iconic octagonal bezel requires 70 manual retouching processes to cut eight oblique The corners are ground and polished, and the case of the single structure still needs 44 steps to finish the sanding process after the stamping process. After the switch to ceramic material, the watchmaker needs a high degree of patience and skill.
Audemars Piguet launched the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar watch last year, this year it also launched a black ceramic model (model: 26579CE.OO.1225CE.01), further enriching its perpetual calendar series. In the 41 mm black ceramic case, on the dark gray ‘Grande Tapisserie’ large decorative dial, the date, day, month, astronomical moon phase, week display on the outer circle of the dial, and leap year display with the most essence of perpetual calendar function Clearly presented, the anti-glare treatment of the sapphire crystal case back allows the wearer to appreciate the beauty of this self-produced movement.
The crown is also made of black ceramic. The octagonal crown is still cumbersome in processing.
The bracelet is the most difficult part of the entire watch. The technology of the Royal Oak integrated strap is extremely complicated. There are a total of 138 edges and corners that need to be polished and polished by hand. They are machined, decorated and assembled by hand. And adjusting a Royal Oak series strap made of stainless steel takes 6 hours, and it takes up to 30 hours to make a black ceramic strap of the same style.
The thickness of the case is only 9.5 millimeters, the side treatment is like cutting, and there is also the wire drawing treatment, which requires considerable man-hours.
The dark gray ‘Grande Tapisserie’ large checkered dial with black sub-dial design, and the astronomical accurate moon phases are displayed in real moon images, in contrast to the black parts. At 3 o’clock, the date is displayed; at 9 o’clock, the week is displayed; at 12 o’clock, the month and leap year are displayed; the outer circle is displayed for 52 weeks of the year, which is indicated by a white arrow pointer.
Audemars Piguet’s new Cal. 5134 self-winding mechanical movement, based on the Cal. 2120 movement. The first Royal Oak was born with Audemars Piguet Cal. 2120 movement, no second hand, caliber 39 mm, thickness 7 mm. This movement is still one of the finest automatic ultra-thin movements. Cal.5134 has been improved and expanded to fit the 41 mm case. It looks like a suspended clockwork decorated with a round Geneva pattern. All bridges are chamfered and decorated with Geneva pattern. A plaid pattern accents the outer edge, echoing the Royal Oak’s signature disc design.
Summary: Compared with the precious metal perpetual calendar introduced last year, the black ceramic version is undoubtedly more cool, and also has more skill in material processing. The combination of external and internal perfect craftsmanship, this watch should be listed in the near future, interested watch friends may wish to pay more attention.