At the Baselworld Watch & Jewellery Show 2016, Breguet launched a new model, the Type XXI 3817 chronograph, which continues this classic series legend. Compared to the refined and elegant Breguet classic series, the Type XX series is more masculine, with a sporty dial and a calf leather strap, with a retro look everywhere. The origin of the Type XX series has to mention Breguet’s relationship with aviation and the military.
From the travel bell of Napoleon’s expedition to Egypt, to the military step timer of the Russian tsar Alexander I, Breguet’s history of producing military timers has been as long as 200 years. Breguet founder Abraham-Louis Breguet led the brand’s innovation and breakthrough in the field of watchmaking. However, little is known, ‘Bao Di’ is still a pioneer to promote the development of the world aviation industry.
Louis Charles Breguet
Louis Charles Breguet (1880-1955) was the fifth generation of Abraham-Louis Breguet and was appointed chief mechanic of the family workshop at the age of 22. He was talented in aviation and physics, and at the age of 24 he proposed the theory of asynchronous motors, which deeply influenced the research of French submarines at that time. A year later, he built the first manned rotorcraft, and the test was successful. Subsequently, he founded an aircraft manufacturing company named after his surname. The famous Breguet 14 aircraft in the First World War helped the Allied Forces to obtain Victory of the First World War. He was the first to propose the construction of a wind tunnel aerodynamic experiment. In 1912, he designed the first seaplane, and in 1915 designed the first bomber. His ‘Breguet 19’ aircraft was completed from Paris for the first time. An uninterrupted flight across the North Atlantic to New York, and he was also one of the founders of Air France. Breguet aircraft laid the foundation for the development of modern aviation, and to this day, many of them still fly in the sky.
At the same time as the aviation business was magnificent, Louis Charles Breguet never forgotten the hard work of its ancestors in the field of watchmaking. Therefore, Breguet Watch Co., Ltd. developed a timing mechanism suitable for the dashboard of the cockpit and began production Aviator watch. In 1935, Breguet launched the first flight chronograph watch. About 20 years later, Breguet developed Type XX models for the French military. Until the early 1980s, the French National Air Force and Navy were still equipped with this prestigious chronograph.
A watch worth mentioning is the stainless steel chronograph BREGUET ANCIENNE TYPE XX 4100 with special flyback function. This early timepiece was bought by Mr. Breguet in the name of Breguet Aviation in 1952, and Became the design blueprint for Type XX models. Because of this historical source, Breguet has inextricably linked with French naval aviation, and the Type series has become one of Breguet’s masterpieces.
Breguet Type XI in the cockpit
Stainless steel chronograph BREGUET ANCIENNE TYPE XX 4100 with special flyback function
TYPE XX AÉRONAVALE 3803-French Navy Air Force’s Centennial Special Edition
Breguet Type XX AÉRONAVALE 3803 chronograph
In 2010, in order to highlight the century-old establishment of the French navy air force, Breguet took the pride in watchmaking skills to create a special limited edition ‘AÉRONAVALE’ with only 1,000 pieces in the world. Breguet seldom issues limited editions with independent numbers. Only in this way can it commemorate this unique history written together with ‘sailing sailors in the sky’. This special model is slightly different from the Type XX chronograph stopwatch (model 3800): the two-way rotating bezel painted in black paint, the Arabic numerals on the bezel are slightly larger than the popular version, and the retro crown is specially made for the limited edition. The back of the case is engraved with the emblem of the French Naval Air Force and the centenary year and so on. Such a historic commemorative watch, with a special custom display box and limited certificate.
The watch’s self-winding chronograph movement is equipped with a complex flyback chronograph function, which is a necessary function in the aviation field, that is, the watch can be reset to zero instantly with a single push on the watch And reset. In addition, it has an independently numbered Cal.581 calibre bearing the Breguet lettering, a power reserve of 48 hours, and a Swiss lever escapement structure. The frame is decorated with delicate pits, diameter 39mm, smooth and polished Lugs, two-way rotating bezel, waterproof to 10 atmospheres (about 100 meters).
TYPE XXII 3880-the world’s first mechanical chronograph made of silicon 10HZ wobble frequency series
Breguet TYPE XXII 3880 chronograph
At the 50th anniversary of the launch of the Breguet Type XX, also on the occasion of the centennial anniversary of the French Navy, Breguet reinterpreted its famous military chronograph, and modernized its technology to launch the Breguet Type XXII series. Watch. In March 2015, the Breguet Type XXII mechanical chronograph launched an 18K rose gold model. The elegant and noble rose gold material further renders the unique charm of this classic watch. The watch contains a Breguet chronograph movement with silicon escapement and balance spring, which has been upgraded to 10HZ (that is, vibration per hour) 72,000 times), giving it unparalleled adjustment capabilities. The chronograph second hand completes one revolution in 30 seconds, which doubles the start function and reading accuracy of the timepiece.
The use of ‘silicon’ material is another highlight. It not only reduces the weight of the moving parts of the movement, but also avoids the lubrication problem caused by high frequency. The Type XXII chronograph also has a flyback function. In addition, the watch has a second time zone display and is accompanied by a calendar window. Through the crown, you can adjust the central hour hand and reset the second time zone indication without affecting the minute hand. The 3 o’clock position is a 24-hour day and night display, which helps the wearer to know whether the area covered by the second time zone is day or night. The brown dial contrasts sharply with the red flyback hands, and is paired with a corresponding brown leather strap.
TYPE XXI 3817-2016 Basel continues legend
At the Baselworld Watch & Jewellery Show 2016, Breguet launched a new model, the Type XXI 3817 chronograph, which continues the legend. The new watch has a retro temperament, and at the same time integrates superb advanced watchmaking technology, revealing the 21st century modern style. After spanning more than half a century, Breguet has continued the long-term connotation of the Type series with elaborate and refined products.
Breguet TYPE XXI 3817 chronograph
The Type XXI 3817 chronograph features a retro-inspired rock gray dial, a smooth steel case, and a calfskin strap. The outer edge of the case is decorated with delicate coin patterns, and the screw-down crown makes it waterproof to a depth of 100 meters. Equipped with a mechanical self-winding movement, it has a flyback chronograph function specially equipped for Type XX chronographs since 1954.
The application of silicon components adds more technical connotation to this new timepiece. The central position of the dial is equipped with a minute timer and a second timer, a 12-hour timer at 6 o’clock and a date window function, and a day and night display and a small second hand at 3 and 9 o’clock, respectively, making this timepiece A must-have for similar products. Watch enthusiasts can also see the exquisite details of the movement through the sapphire crystal caseback. This is the first time the Type XX series has introduced this design.
No matter it is internal or external, Type XXI 3817 highlights innovation on the basis of inheriting tradition. The use of ‘silicon’ material adds glory to the watch. Like Type XXII 3880, the use of ‘silicon’ material makes the moving parts of the movement It is lighter and avoids lubrication problems caused by high frequencies, making the Type XXI 3817 a unique retro innovation.